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If you are new to the Isaan Region of Thailand you should find most of what you need to know here. (Our A-Z is missing the odd letter and if you have any information that we could pass on to our clients to make their stay in Isaan more enjoyable, let us know and we will add it here)
A Airport. The nearest airport is Khon Kaen (approx 40 Minutes). Currently served by Thai Airways offering 3 flights a day to and from Bangkoks Don Muang Airport (previously Thailand's International Aiport until Suvarnabhumi Airport opened in late 2006). Flights to/from Bangkok take around 50 Minutes and can be obtained for around 1500 Thb.
Apartments. If you're looking to stay long term whilst your home is being built you can find a small apartment block in Khon Kaen for around 7,000 baht/month. A double room in the Wanchai Hotel in Ban Phai costs from 550 baht a night and rates can be negotiated if you are staying for 2 weeks or a month.
ATMs. There are now ATMs in all of the major towns in Thailand, full banking facilites can be found in Ban Phai (15 Minutes) or Khon Kaen (40 minutes).
ATVs. Great fun if you've got acres of rugged farmland on which to play but a liability if you're using them on the road, as a few locals with a bit of cash seem to do. Personally, I don't see the point in buying a 250cc machine for the cost of a small pick-up truck, which does 30 mph on the flat and then having nowhere to use it. Nevertheless if you want to buy one to run around country lanes and fields then you can buy on in Khon Kaen. Dont forget insurance and remeber they aren't actually road legal in Thailand.
B Backpackers. (Or 'Travellers' to be politically correct.) Love 'em or loathe 'em but you can't avoid 'em. Gap Year students are all over Thailand but luckily they seem to congregate in beach resorts such as Phucket and Ko Samui and do not travel enmasse to Isaan. If you do travel around Thailand you'll be sitting in a beachfront restaurant enjoying your steamed sea bass, a large plate of prawns and cool Beer Chang and from somewhere behind you you'll overhear a voice ordering a fried rice and bottle of water and an extra plate so Ms. Backpacker can share. 20 minutes later the voice will be heard again complaining that he has been charged 10 baht for the water when it only costs 5 baht in the 7-11 and sharing the opinions that they are reading from Lonely Planet. I'm regularly less than impressed by the lack of travelling many travellers do - remaining in one spot for a month or so is just plain boring and hardly opens your eyes to a new country & culture. No, taking in full moon parties on different islands doesn't really count as an adventure.
Bank Accounts. If you plan on moving or working here then having a Thai bank account certainly helps when it comes to having a place to deposit any hard earned cash or to transfer monies into. You can open a simple deposit account which includes an ATM card for a simple 100 baht deposit into the account. If you are looking for enhanced banking facilities you will have to make sure your visa situation is in order.
Bars. Beers can be bought from almost any local store and can be drunk at any time you need a beer. Unfortunately Carrefore and 7/11 do not sell alchohol at certain times of the days. Khon Kaen has a number of bars which cater for Foreigners and you can find lovely surroundings in the hotels both in Ban Phai and Khon Kaen. Both Chang Beer and Singha Beer are most enjoyable and cost a fraction of the imported beers such as Fosters and Heinekin
Baht. - The correct way to spell the name of the Thai currency in English.
Bakeries. Not much in the way of fresh bread available in the locality but if you do your weekly shop at either Carrefore or Tesco Metro in Khon Kaen you will find breads from around the world on sale. So if you like a Croissant with your morning coffee then you can continue to indulge in Thailand.
Beaches. In Isaan you are a long way from the beaches but you can be in Pattaya in less than 3 hours (by plane and coach) or about 5 hours by car. So if you enjoy the beaches you can do that most weekends while at other times you relax in your home in Isaan.
Bird Flu. No outbreaks reported in Isaan but as long as you are not frequenting chicken storage facilities where you can inhale germs from bird facies you will be ok.
Bookshops. Thai's love to read books and although the majority of books on sale in the bookshops of Ban Phai and Khon Kaen are in the Thai Language you will find magazines from Europe and America on sale. Of course if you visit Bangkok or Pattaya you will be able to stock up on a books and magazines in English, German, French, etc.
Booking accommodation in advance. In brief. Something you must do if you're staying in a large 4,000 baht/night resort. However if you are simply looking for reasonably priced accomodation you can normally find a bed and hot shower on arrival for a few nights whilst you get your bearings and then relocate once you decide where you want to say. If you decide to book a hotel in Ban Phai simply send them and email and they will hold a room open for you and then ask a Thai to call the hotel on your behalf to confirm your arrival once you arrive in Thailand, it is as easy as that.
Border Crossing, If you have to leave Thailand to renew your visa you can do this through Cambodia or Laos. It normally takes a day to travel on a visa bus to the border to go through and pay a fee and then turn around and drive back with a visa for another 180 days. If you seek to fly out of Thailand and return, your visas can then be renewed from your home Country or when you fly back into Thailand.
Builders. Thai builders offer quality service as long as they are managed properly. This takes skill and we use a builder who has been in business for over 30 years in Isaan to manage our projects overseen by a surveyor and architect from the USA.
BUPA. You should consider a health insurance policy as you will have to pay for medical and dental treatments in Thailand and you do not want to be seriously ill and be unable to pay. Their are a number of providers but most people seem to take out BUPA as it is a company they know and trust.
Buses. Buses in Thailand are used for transport by the majority of Thais and you can travel the length of Thailand by bus for less than $20. All buses are airconditioned and some have hostess service.
C Cable TV. Isaan Cable TV is available for around 250 baht a month. Many people however put a satellite on their homes and so can pick up 100s of channels from around the world.
Climate. Either hot & fairly dry or even hotter and very wet; depending on whether you visit during November - April or May - October.
Coffee. Over the past few years Starbucks and such like have arrived in Thailand and the Thais have realised that if they want customers they should offer good coffee. You will find good coffee shops in both Ban Phai and Khon Kaen. If you want to save money then buy 'cafe boran' the traditional strong, sweet Thai iced coffee served to go in a plastic bag for 10 baht from a market stall.
D Dentists. There are quality dentists all over Thailand offering specialist treatments for a fraction of the price in the West. Ban Phai and Khon Kaen have a number of dentists where you can make an appointment or simply queue up if you have an urgent need for treatment. You can also get your teeth cleaned for under 1,000 baht or a have them whitened and return home with a movie star smile for 12,000 baht.
F Fishing. In the late afternoon it's common to see young locals sitting on pier or riverbanks with their rods in hand, having a ball. Fishing isn't simply a matter of drowning worms for fun, it's free food - which if you're earning less than 150 baht a day is something that becomes a necessity. You can also reduce your shopping bills by simply whiling away a few hours catching fish for your kitchen.
Footwear. You will live in sandals whilst in Thailand - your feet will need air and socks are simply not required (especially in heavy rain) so get yourself a quality pair of sandals to last you and it will be the best investment you ever made.
Foreign exchange. You will get a very disadvantageous exchange rate when you change money at a hotel or guesthouse. Go to one of the forex offices run by Thai banks where Traveller's Cheques and hard currency,can be changed at the usual undesirably low rates. Better still, use your ATM card. If you go to a bank to change money - remember to take your passport withn you.
G Gym. If after working up a sweat by simply walking around you are the sort of person who like to be in gym pounding weights then the nearest gymnasium is in Khon Kaen.
H Health. Their are doctors surgerys in both Ban Phai and Khon Kaen but be prepared for a long wait as when you see the queues at the Doctors Surgerys you will have a distinct impressions that the Thais are a sickly race. If your medical needs require more specialised help then you can head to the new large hospital in Khon Kaen. Expect to pay around 2,000 baht to see a doctor, so maybe not the best place to go if you just need cream for a mozzie bite. If you feel ill most pharmacies will be able to recommend medicines for you but you may want to bring someone who speaks Thai if you are in Ban Phai.
I Ice Cream. Forget Walls, Nestle and the shockingly poor but very cheap 'Cremo'. Look for the the middle aged man & woman on motorbikes selling coconut ice cream. This 'brand' is delicious and a small plastic cup full only costs 10 baht. Far better than other locally produced stuff which tend to combine a crushed ice texture with a crushed ice taste to produce an overall taste sensation closely resembling that of crushed ice.
Internet Access. Internet access is readily available in both Ban Phai and Khon Kaen - stay at the Wanchai Hotel in Ban Phai and you get free internet access. Otherwise seek out the internet cafes (still not too many in Ban Phai). You should be paying 30-40 baht an hour and less if you pay for say 10 hours in advance (allowing you to come back when you want to). Unfortunately some small Internet cafes and guesthouses that cater for tourists charge 1 baht/minute, however, a quick walk around the town centre will result in you finding somewhere for the usual 30-40 baht/hour rate.
L Laundry. The going rate for laundry services is about 30 - 40 baht per kilo your clothes will never have looked so white or be pressed so stiffly. You could also keep an eye out for coin operated washing machines, you can find the in out of the way shops. These usually cost around 30-40 baht for a full load. All you need is to buy a 5 baht bag of washing powder and give up an hour of your valuable time to wait for the machine to complete its wash, rinse & spin cycle. Laundry dries within 30 minutes with a bit of sun and sea breeze. Don't worry about not having your clothes ironed wearing slightly crinkly t-shirt won't kill you or embarrass everyone you have ever met, regardless of what your mother may have taught you in the past.
Lawyers. Whether you've been taken in by the police for a crime you didn't commit or had a crash in your car or on your motorbike and are now facing a ridiculous demand for damages, you may think about obtaining the services of a lawyer. We can recommend lawyers for you and we use good quality lawyers in Khon Kaen. If you need a lawyer for any reason, especially one that involves the exchange of money or property then avoid simply using a one man operation for the simple reason that you have no way of knowing that they will represent your best interests. Get a lawyer from Khon Kaen or, better still, from a well known law firm in Bangkok. They'll cost more but they wont screw up your life.
Learning Thai. There are several language schools in Khon Kaen and if you planning to live in Isaan it is worth it learning at least basic Thai. You will be welcomed into the community and the Thais will be happy to help you get better.
Lonely Planet Guidebook. A new 'Thailand' edition was published in Autumn 2007, the problem with listings for places such as Isaan which are developing so fast is that by the time the book is published the information is at least 18 months out of date. Good to get an idea, but don't expect prices that they quote to be anywhere near accurate.
M Malaria. Judging from the emails we receive and from speaking to clients, most people are a bit worried about the odds of catching malaria. Google 'malaria' and 'Isaan' and you'll find plenty of health related websites which have information on the risks of catching this disease.
In boring old reality, there's only a chance of catching malaria if you plan on spending a few weeks camping out in the jungle during the rainy season. If you're planning on staying in a beachfront hotel then I wouldn't worry. Locals don't worry or even give malaria a second thought nowadays. (The local government launched an eradication program well over 10 years ago). I've asked a couple of neighbours if they remember anyone catching it and in the past few years - since the advent of mass tourism there haven't been any cases that stick in the mind. In the five years i have been travelling here I haven't heard of any cases or even rumours of cases.
Take the obvious precautions, wear long sleeved shirts and light trousers in the evening and bring a good mosquito repellent, something with a high percentage of DEET in it as mozzies can sometimes be a nuisance. Natural, citronella based repellents, may make you feel as though you're saving the ozone layer or whatever, but when it comes to deterring mozzies; coating yourself with DEET or, any Agent Orange derivative, is the only way to go.
Thai Red Cross recommends against taking anti-malarial drugs for several reasons including:
1) Ineffective prevention of an infection allowing for a sub-symptomatic infection that delays diagnosis and treatment. Treatment during the early first stages of malaria is very effective, but it gets more difficult as the infection and life cycle of the parasite progresses.
2) Contribution to the development of resistance pools to anti-malarials that are also used for treatment
3) Side effects from the anti-malarials. Rather, they recommend that you use bite prevention and if you have the slightest doubt that you might be infected, report to the nearest clinic or mosquito control office (there's one in every small town in Thailand) for a diagnostic test, followed by immediate treatment on the one in a million chance that you have actually contracted malaria.
If you feel that the Thai Red Cross is still a bit too 'third world' to be a reliable source of accurate information then feel free to contact the American Center for Disease Control. If you've ever met Americans when they're travelling you'll know how paranoid many of them are about catching any foreign bugs, so you should feel pretty confident that the CDC's advice errs on the side of caution.
Markets. There is a daily market in Ban Phai that starts at 3am. Ban Phai is the largest market town in the region and the streets(soi's) are full of people from as early as 3am. Here you will find all the fish, meat, vegetables, rice and fruit you will ever require. Be warned though that the fish you buy will be live and you will have to club it to death and gut it when you get home. Thankfully the meat is already butchered. For a larger variety of clothes shops and general stores within a food market Khon Kaen has a very good night market.
Massage. You'll find traditional massage shops in both Ban Phai and Khon Kaen. Cost is about 200-300 baht for a massage lasting an hour or more. A good way to unwind after a day's swimming/cycling/gardening etc. You can also get a foot massage for between 100 -150 baht to take away the aches and pains from you feet and lower legs. A great way to relax and feel refreshed.
Mobile Phones. Mobile phones are on sale everywhere but most mobile phones from home will work in Thailand and if not they can be "tweaked" for around 100 Baht. You can then buy a Thai Sim card from DTAC, Orange or Hutch for around 100 Baht, we have found that Orange give the best coverage in all the village locations but in town they are all very good.
Monks. You will see Buddhist Monks all over Thailand and there's a monastery in Non Sila. If you're up early in the morning (6-7am) you'll see locals giving alms to monks in Non Sila, Ban Phai and Khon Kaen.
Motorbikes. Unlike the beach resorts it is not so easy to find 100-125cc bikes for rent. One or 2 shops in Khon Kaen now offer this service but you will have to search them out. Cost is 200 Baht for 24 hours rental which usually drops to 150 baht in low season. Expect to leave your passport or some form of photo ID as a security deposit. Most bikes are new and many are now automatic - which makes life far easier for inexperienced riders. (Yamaha Mio's and Nuovo's are the automatic bikes.) You should be given a helmet as they are mandatory, although 95% of people don't wear them and if insurance is offered make sure you read it in English before you sign up to it. Do not hire any Big Bikes or Dirtbikes unless you are a qualified bike rider in your own country. Avoid renting ATVs, they're not road legal in Thailand so you will not have any insurance cover if you have an accident.
Motorcyclists. There are two kinds of bad riders in Thailand. The bad farang riders and the bad Thai riders. Their traits differ however, the Thai rider will more often than not be a danger to other road users because he places all his faith in not having an accident in the small amulet his grandfather gave him and that Buddah will look after him, rather than following any rules of the road. This amulet gives him superhuman powers and makes him indestructible. Think about it, how fast would you ride if you thought you had eternal life? Farang riders pose an equal threat, not through speed, more through lack of it. Lobster tanned couples wobbling around on a 100cc scooter and eventually stalling and falling underneath the wheels of a pick-up when attempting to climb a hill are an all too common cause of tailbacks. Do not think you can suddenly ride a motorbike safely if you have never been on one before in your life.
N Newspapers. The Bangkok Post is a good quality English language paper but if E Newspapers suit you, then you can spend an hour on the Internet getting all the news from home. t V-Mart after mid-morning and you can get the day's Bangkok Post. Life is good.
Nightlife. If it's a full on full moon experience you're after, head to the islands. In Isaan you can enjoy a good beer and a good meal watch a movie, go see a show or simply relax at home. Isaan is not the Ibiza of Asia such as Pattaya and Phuket have become and thank god for that.
P Phones. Most people seem to use mobile phones now and many company phone numbers are actually mobile numbers. Blue public coin phones can be found in most small hamlets and villages and the quality of the lines are excellent. Using these will be way cheaper than calling from a guesthouse/hotel. To make cheap calls elsewhere in Thailand just dial '1234' before you dial the Thai number. Costs around 1.5 baht minute. So the next time a tour agent charges you 50 baht for a 30 second call to reconfirm an airline booking with an airline office in Bangkok you know you're being ripped off. Most payphones can also be used to make international calls. They have info in English about how to do this and if you use a '007', '008' or '009' prefix instead of the usual '001', you'll get much cheaper call rates - sometimes as low as 6 or 7 baht/minute to many Western countries.
Photo developing. For those people stuck firmly in the 20th century you will find a number of shops in Ban Phai offering 35mm. photo processing alongside Digital Services and burn to CD.
Pizza. After a few days of Rice and Thai Food most Farangs seek home comforts for at least one meal. You can buy a Pizza in Carrefore or Tesco Lotus and cook at home or you can visit Pizza Hut in Khon Kaen to indulge your desire for Pizza.
Police. A pretty laid back bunch. Most appear to be more interested in spending time on their outside business interests, which usually involve running bungalows, bars, acting as land & building agents etc than actual police work. But look out for the roadblocks to check licences and ownership papers and to search locals for drugs. Make sure you always carry at least 200 baht when you are driving to buy yourself out of any problems you face at the roadblock (such as that international licence you don't have with you right now). Basically if you keep yourself to yourself in Isaan you will be left alone and not face any problems.
Post Office. There is a post office in Ban Phai and Khon Kaen and I have found the postal service out of Thailand very good . If someone is sending to you in Thailand anything of value send it recorded post, otherwise that watch you bought in America for your Thai girlfriend will never arrive.
Power Cuts. The electrical supply tends to go off at least once every couple of weeks. Usually these outages only last a few minutes, however during the rainy season you can have several hours without power. Longer power cuts are usually the result of branches or entire trees falling on the lines. The price of a generator in Thailand is very reasonable and it is a worthwhile investment for your home.
R Rain. When it rains it really does come down with a vengeance. For anyone, myself included who is used to Bangkok's rainy season weather i.e. a storm then a couple of days sunshine followed by another storm and so on, the rain in Isaan may come as a bit of a shock. It can rain solidly for a couple of days or more. This means all your clothes are permanently damp, there's no-one on the streets, half the shops are shut and everyone is complaining about how boring the rain is.
The main rainy season is from June - October. During this time it will rain during your stay in Isaan. Just how much is down purely to luck. With luck on your side, they'll be a shower in the morning , clouds will clear and the afternoons will be sunny. Unlucky, and you'll be huddled at home for a day or two.
Renting land/property. Anyone making a quick visit to Isaan in the hope of snapping up a nice plot of land or property to rent easily will probably be in for a disappointment unless they are happy to pay over the odds and pay high fees to verify ownership. Many Thai's pawn the papers they have for their land at the Local Pawnshop so confirming ownership can be an absolute nightmare and very time consuming. Virtually all rentable real estate isn't advertised anywhere in Thai or English and the stuff that is is found in publication are more often than not overpriced and/or not worth renting in the first place, that is if they are actually still available when you arrive. As with buying land, the best way to find out what's available in your preferred area is to put in a lot of leg work and ask around, and of course this takes knowledge and hard work.
Roads. The main roads in Isaan are generally well built and properly maintained and in most villages you will find an asphalt road. Be careful in the more remote village areas where the roads are not made from asphalt and have got holes from tractors. These can kill the suspension on a normal car and be a death trap to the unwary motorcyclist or cyclist.
Satellite Views. Google Earth has just (late 2007) expanded their high resolution coverage of Isaan, so if you know where you are staying you'll be able to get a satellite view of your hotel. Also worth looking at is www.pointasia.com - for a Thai version of Google Earth but with better resolution of all the regions.
Schools. Local Schools are Thai Language Schools. Bangkok has some world class International School Facilities The best International school in Isaan would appear to be in Korat.
7-Elevens. They are all over Thailand now and you can find one in Ban Phai and in Khon Kaen.
T Tailors. You'll be surprised by the number of tailors in Bangkok or the Beach Resorts. I've no idea which are the good ones and which aren't as they all seem to be recommended by various tour agencies etc. So some will provide you with a perfectly fitted Armani copy for a fraction of the price of an original, and others will sell you an ill-fitting version of the same for the price of an original. In Isaan their are some very good Tailors in Khon Kaen where you can be confident in getting a good quality suit or handmade shirt at the agreed price.
Tattoos. When I was a lad only bikers, only Motorhead and the Village People had tattoos, now it seems everyone has got a tribal motif of some kind on their right shoulder. I'm never sure if the tribal tattoo is designed to set you apart from the crowd or show you are part of the crowd. But, if you haven't got yours yet, you can find tattoo parlours in both Ban Phai and Khon Kaen. Corporate types and twelve year old girls may prefer the henna tattoos on sale by beach vendors, they wash off after a couple of weeks so no shouting by your boss or teacher when you get home. Tattoos in Thailand are much cheaper than the West and i have never heard anyone complain about the quality of the workmanship or the clealiness of the utensils.
U UBC. All self respecting foreign bar owners in Khon Kaen provide UBC satellite TV in their premsies as it's essential if they want to grab the Premier League / BBC News / repeats of Survivor that the farang customers want.
V Vets. There are vets in both Ban Phai and Khon Kaen who can look after your beloved pet when sick
W Water. Water supplies are much better than they used to be, but you will still get regular times when the water supply is off for a few hours. The easy way to solve this is to have a 500 Litre water barrel at the rear of your home to collect rain water and an electric pump (around 20,000 baht fitted) so that you can flush your toilet and have a shower when the mains water goes off.
Weather. if you want to know the daily weather in Isaan check out WWW.Wundergound.com
Wi-Fi Internet Access. Until recently 'wireless' meant simply not having electric or phone lines. In Isaan i am not yet aware of any wi-fi hotspots catering to laptop carrying visitors.
Wildlife. A veritable host of wild things inhabit the regions of Thailand. If bird spotting is your thing then Isaan has so many opportunities to sit and birdwatch. Of course amongst this wildlife is Snakes, Scorpions, Spiders Etc. so take care. Also that docile Buffallo working with the farmer in the field can be a more scarier object when you are near it and all alone.